Vineman in Umbria

June 16th, 2008

After leaving the more open spaces of Puglia, the mountains of central Italy certainly impose themselves on you as do the winding roads test your nerves.  As Umbria is a land locked region these mountains eventually meld into more rolling hills somewhat like Tuscany with that rural patch work scenery. 

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 For as far as the eye can see, the scene is one of natural bush, olive groves, vineyards and patches of more intensive agriculture.
Eventually you find your destination and what a surprise it turns out to be.  Amongst the rolling hills are located many Agriturismi, resort style accommodation on working rural properties usually of olive groves or vineyards.  They provide all that one would want from a resort yet they are located within a rural setting, often producing their own products from whatever they grow. These are often used in the meals prepared as well as being available for sale.

 

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Fattoria di Vibio is one such place, isolated yet splendid in all its offerings. Owner Gabriella Moscati and son Guiseppe  Saladini have created a world class Agriturismo and above all have ensured it is extremely friendly and relaxed. This is an important aspect, especially I think for Australians.

 

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 It is located just off the autostrada not far from the town of Todi and close enough to Peruggia or Assisi.  It is perched high on a ridge with stunning valley views.  It has a 15 hectare olive grove with trees of varying ages.  The meals prepared are typical of the region and the wine cellar would be the envy of any one interested in Italian wines.  

 

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Sommelier “Carmine” is your very knowledgeable yet entertaining host. His expertise, charm and humor are unforgettable.  With over 500 labels covering all the wine producing areas of Italy, he guides you towards a wine which would suite the meal you are about to enjoy.  When numbers are sufficient structured wine and cheese tastings can also be arranged.  

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His attention to detail is incredible as is the information on Italian regions and varieties.  You do end up feeling as though you have been on a journey of discovery.  Even to share some new world wine knowledge with someone as interested has been a great experience.

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While the weather has been a little on the wet side, the indoor pool which is described (in the Lonely Planet Guide) as having a view to make you weep, provides necessary exercise to combat the over indulgence.
Ciao from Vineman in Umbria. 

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Salve Puglia

June 9th, 2008

Yes it’s been a while but worth waiting for. Vineman has taken a month off and traveled to the southern region of Puglia in Italy, the heel of the boot. This region is renowned for its hot climate, rugged landscape, robust red wines and Trulli (cone shaped stone dwellings).

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The area I have settled in for the week is 20km inland from the Adriatic Sea and at an altitude of 3 – 400m. The countryside is a vista of olive groves, plots of vines, almonds, cherries and small vegetable patches growing tomatoes, capers and broad beans. Scattered amongst the plots are the Trulli which add to the picturesque nature of the landscape. They originally accommodated the field workers who constructed then from the stones collected as the soil was worked. Now they seem to accommodate the tourist who wants to experience a stay on a working farm.

The soil of this region has its origin from limestone as the base rock is Calcium Carbonate cap stone, dense yet with time is porous to water. The soil is deep red clay which is also very porous. I suspect therefore that it is very basic (neutral to high pH) as there is evidence of chlorosis in many of the vines.

The vine plots are rather small and have been tendered by the same vignerons for a long time. They almost know their vines individually.

Many are not trellised but those which are have a very simple system of fixed wires. Much hand work is done on a regular basis involving wrapping and tying of shoots together to allow access down the rows as well as offer protection of the fruit in case of storms. I have already experienced quite severe thunder, lightening and lashing rain but no hail. I guess it is a feature of an area where most of its rain comes during the growing season.

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I did spend a little time comparing canopy management methods and finding out what spray regimes were applied. As the accompanying photos show some are open to discuss such things while others adopt a more defensive attitude.

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In the end all was good and both sides managed to understand a little of what we discussed. Until I write from Umbria, 

Ciao from Vineman

  

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Vintage 2008 - MERLOT - Bring it on!

April 4th, 2008

Following the Viognier harvest, everyone braced themselves for a bigger day with the Merlot.  Given that we were a few pickers short the previous day, I was right on to stressing with the picking contractor that more bodies were needed to ensure that the fruit is off before the peak heat of the day.  Things did drag on into the afternoon with the Viognier pick.

Sampling the previous week did indicate that the Merlot was ripening nicely, sugars had risen well, seeds were darkening and flavours were peaking.  From a logistical perspective it makes sense for me to harvest both varieties either on the same day or on alternate days.

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The harvest team really excelled in the conditions and the whole of the 9+ tonnes was brought in with a 4 x 4 motorbike and trailer.

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In order to reduce any chance of green characters in the wine it is vital that leaves and petioles are removed.  You can point out to the pickers as many times as you like to keep vine leaves out, however you have to check every picking box as it comes in.

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The day went well, yields were good and the word from the winery was that the analysis could not be faultered.  Beaume, pH and titrateable acid were all as you would want them and at this stage not acid adjustments were needed.  This year we are trying something a little different by allowing the crushed grapes to undergo a cold soak for 4 - 5 days prior to fermentation.  The idea behind this is that the batch will homogenise well, will commence the colour extraction process and also ensure greater fruit intensity in the final wine.

Following this it will then be up to those special little yeast babies to do their thing.  Keep you posted on the progress of the wines.

Vineman

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Vintage 2008 -VIOGNIER - Bring it on!

April 2nd, 2008

The bunch sampling carried out on Monday 24th March together with impending weather lurking later in the week, all helped to convince me that harvest was to take place later that week.  The aim was to take the Viognier off on Thursday and the Merlot on Friday - much organising to be done.

First job was to find a net machine to remove the nets, then could pickers be arranged as well as transport for bins as well as will the winery be able to process the fruit?  It all fell into place perfectly!  The weather on the day was warm to hot, another great harvest day in Margaret River. 

The Viognier harvest was a surprise with the yield being above expectation and some fantastic fruit harvested. This harvest will see the largest quantity of Viognier picked from the vineyard thus far, indicating that we are close to nailing the growing this precocious variety.

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The fruit showed the typical variation from green to golden coloured berries.  The deep coloured fruit was due to those bunches which were specifically exposed to the sun to achieve the required amount of berry shrivel.  Indications at the last sampling were that the Beaumes would be high again with the flavours of apricot, peach and honey suckle peaking.

Winemaking style dictates that the bunches are pressed whole i.e. no crushing so as to reduce the phenolic astringency. You guessed it, the winery didn’t have the ability to “easily” get the fruit into the airbag press.  So, straddled between the press and the forklift, all 5+ tonnes had to be shovelled into the press by hand.

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That day started at 5am and finished at 11:30pm fro Vineman but the winery didn’t complete the final press load until 3am the following day!

At this point I am excited at the quality and flavour of the juice.  Bring on the Merlot harvest.

Vineman

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Yes - On the home run!

March 18th, 2008

The past weeks have seen weather conditions range from a run of extremely hot days and nights, rain and currently mild to warm days with cool nights.

Ten days ago when we received 25mm of rain over two days I must say I was looking for the worry beads as I had only just commenced sampling and at that stage harvest looked like being more than 3 weeks away.  Luckily both the Merlot and Viognier have come through that well with only a slight slowing of ripening for about a week.

Initially things were looking very similar to 2007 with harvest possibly mid March.  Since then it appears as though we have slipped into a normal harvest time, if there is such a thing.

Bird pressure appears to have abated as sporadic flowering of the red gum has commenced.  The only issue are the ground feeding magpies finding their way under the nets.  They seem to be kind on the fruit and leave it alone.

Yesterday’s sampling showed the Viognier to be colouring well and exhibiting some of that characteristic shrivel.  Flavours will build in the next week or so.

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For this important variety things are looking good and we should be on track for 13.5 - 14.0 Beaume at harvest.

The Merlot is a little behind and ripening steadily.  The crop load is moderate following an extensive fruit drop post veraison.  The remaining fruit has coloured well.

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For the Merlot we are looking for around 13.5 Beaume - still 2 weeks away!

Will keep you all posted how the next week or so transpires.

Vineman

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The End

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